[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
10 - 08 - 07, 12.30pm [Current Vietnam Time]
PICTURES! (CLICK HERE)
More of the same, really. This will probably be my last post, as I will soon have to start trying to get home (which will take a good bit of effort, as I fly standby and all flights are overbooked). Fear not, though. Courtney will be taking over, and you can reach her continuation at nampart2.blogspot.com.
My final thought will come when I reach home and have time to evaluate everything I've done while here. We're still fairly busy, and there's a good bit I still want to do, so this post will also be short. Suffice it to say, it's been a great time, and definitely affected me to an extent that only travel can do. And with that, we're going to go eat. Again, for the next month, Courtney and Hai will keep updates running at nampart2.blogspot.com.
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
08 - 08 - 07, 7.15pm [Current Vietnam Time]
To begin: Caprice! It's been 11 months! -MWAH-, thank you for making the days bright, the nights warm and life so damn amazing in the time we've been together. I love you, and can't wait to see you when I return! Also...pick up the phone!
Alright, enough mushiness. The past 3 days have been quite interesting. To sum them up, we spent time with the kids at the peace camp, visited the War Remnants Museum, and overall got some great footage (and made a few new contacts along the way).
On Tuesday, after spending the morning at the hospital, (a day in which I've slowly started to become comfortable feeding the children) Courtney, Hai and myself went to the War Remnants Museum and requested permission to film the upcoming "Agent Orange Awareness Event." After a thorough evaluation of us, we received our permission. The rest of the day went fairly slow, allowing us ample time to rest. The next day was going to be a long one.
It was today, Wednesday, that things really picked up. So far, the going has been somewhat slow. We have filmed, but nothing seriously pertaining to the documentary.
The event was amazing. Most of the children/victims in or near Ho Chi Minh City were invited, and many showed up. A fairly famous photographer of Japanese origin (who has done most prize winning photography of the effect of Agent Orange) received an award, and the day was full of pretty amazing acts and shows. Unfortunately, the only photography we got was in the movie camera, so no pictures to post. Suffice it to say, it was a BIG event. While there, said Japanese photographer (will edit this once I remember his name) gave us his card, and wanted to keep in touch. We also met a man from the International Action Center, based in Washington, who was photographing for what out loud was a documentary, but in whispers was for the current lawsuit against the chemical companies that created Agent Orange. Apparently, many US veterans are joining with Vietnamese veterans in the lawsuit (though the Vietnamese government does not want to recognize this due to lingering Anti-American Government and Army sentiments). He is attempting to gather pictures and info to further encourage US veterans affected by the chemical to join in. A noble cause, though I won't mention his name for obvious reasons. We will keep in contact though; he seemed very well versed in current events surrounding Agent Orange.
On a closely related tangent, he mentioned that the US is still using chemical warfare, such as depleted uranium, in Iraq. This has already started to affect the populace, armies that are backing the US, and our own soldiers. It needs to stop, and people need to wake up to the fact that this is happening to our men and women in uniform - our brothers and sisters, our sons and daughters. But that is for your own research.
Well, aside from this, we spent time with the kids (who were also at the event). Today, we presented them with the idea that we will be filming them - they seem pretty for it. Otherwise, this is the end of my post. Pictures in a bit, just like last time.
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
06 - 08 - 07, 8.40am [Current Vietnam Time]
PICTURES (Click Here)
Sorry for the long absence! My guess was off, and I didn't have access to the internet over the weekend!
The weekend was fairly hectic. We spent the majority of our time filming b-roll. Got some great shots of the harbor, the countryside and the market in Nha Trang. Went a bit north of the city, through the mountains, for half of a (really rainy) day, and stayed with Hai's family while filming their rice paddies.
Not a great deal of interest happened. Turned out there was a hurricane off the coast, but other than really heavy rains, we weren't affected. Rented motorbikes again this weekend, and almost crashed a few times, but otherwise alright.
I do have to say this - the buses in Vietnam are most definitely made for the Asian physique. After a 10 hour ride back to Vietnam from Nha Trang, I'm tired as hell. Courtney and Hai found the reserves to head to the hospital this morning (I'll be joining them in the afternoon), and I brought all the bags up to the room. Now, I think I'll sleep until they get back.
So that's about it. Rest of the day will probably be spent in the hospital, and I'll post pictures as soon as I have them. I have one week left, then back to the states for me.
Take care.
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
01 - 08 - 07, 10.00pm [Current Vietnam Time]
[Pictures Later]
The past two days have been both intense and eye-opening. We started volunteering time with the kids at the peace camp, and the first day (the 31st) was mentally very fatiguing. Meeting these kids for the first time was rough - everything went as expected, but I don't think we were fully prepared for the full scale of what these kids were going through. The physical deformities are initially overwhelming, and I doubt we'll be truly accustomed to them anytime soon. But the kids are affectionate, and happy to see us. They are all great kids - from the infants who just want your attention, to the 11 and 12 year olds who just want to be kung fu masters. We volunteered from 8 to 11am, then 2 to 4pm; Courtney and Hai were with the older kids, getting a feel for who they wanted to film, while myself and Hai's cousin, Lan, were with the infants.
Today, we went back and volunteered again; same hours, same deal. This second day was much easier than the first. We all understood what we needed to do, and had become somewhat used to the kids. Courtney and Hai have chosen the four children who will be filmed for the documentary, and now all that remains is getting to know them better, and reaching an agreeable story to film around (based entirely upon the children's views and ideals).
Tomorrow, we volunteer for a third time this week, and then hop a bus to Nha Trang for the weekend. We intend to film b-roll of the ocean, countryside and city life while there. Hopefully, we will not run into any rain.
Also, the tourist season has apparently just begun - this means an increase in the number of people in the markets and people being swindled by taxi/motorbike/cyclo drivers. It also means an increase in the above mentioned drivers trying to wave US down and get us to ride in their vehicle. The level of annoyance is reaching an all time high I never thought it could reach. Ah well...such is Vietnam's public transportation. Luckily, that's really the only thing I can complain about.
Well, that's all for now. I might have internet access in Nha Trang this time around, so expect some updates soon. Good night.
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
30 - 07 - 07, 4.00pm [Current Vietnam Time]
The past two days have followed a similar route as the rest of the week. We shot more b-roll yesterday, gathering a few shots of street vendors, the presidential palace and some birds (caged, and not-so-caged).
After filming for half the day, we decided it was time to try to get a relaxing, professional massage. We chose a high-class hotel next door, which fortunately only charged $7 for a 1-hour "relaxing massage". We went up to the second floor (where the parlor was located), and they directed Courtney into a nearby room, then Hai and myself up to the next floor. This was my first time ever getting a professional massage, so it was all fairly new to me. We were told to undress, and take a shower in the nearby stalls. Afterwards, we were given fairly comfortable shorts to wear, and pointed down a hallway.
This is where things got interesting.
To begin, we were given separate, private rooms. I was a bit on edge at this point - all I wanted was a good massage, you know...work some knots out of my back and all. But this being my first massage, I assumed all was normal. I lied down on the table, said hello to the Vietnamese girl who came in, and immediately shoved my head through that little hole at the top of the bed. She then proceeded to massage my back. I was relieved - after all, this was a high class place...
Now, a bit of background. I have a girlfriend whom I love named Caprice Kefauver back in MD, and I cannot wait to get back to her. I couldn't even imagine going so far as to letting some other girl kiss me on the cheek (unless she was related, or a very close friend, and even then - only the cheek). So, I was crossing my fingers about this massage.
She went through the motions, did the whole walk on my back deal, then had me turn over. "Ok," I figure, "this is normal too. They had us do it at the medicinal massage place as well." Well, it was right about now that she points at my crotch and says "Massage?" with a very meaningful look. "No, no, no," I don't know how many times I shook my head, and despite this, she was very persistent. It was quite uncomfortable. I paid for a massage though, so I ended up having to just turn back over and point to my back. After all, that's really the only type of massage I like...well, from anyone other than...yea, I won't go there.
Anyways, fast forward (thank god, only about 10 minutes), and Courtney, Hai and myself were walking back to the hotel. Courtney loved her massage...in an open room with other women. Hai and myself were fairly silent - yes, it happened to him too. Well, suffice it to say, we called it an early night and just watched movies for the rest of the time before passing out.
Today, we went to the hospital to ask for permission to help out, and maybe get to know the kids. In case you have forgotten, this is a documentary on Agent Orange, and if you want to see what it is, and who the kids are, google it. We were told to come back at 8am tomorrow, and that they would try to find volunteer work for us to do. Whatever happens, we WILL have permission to film and such come next week - it would still be good to get to know the kids beforehand. After this, Courtney and I went to film some more; Hai and his cousin went to find medicine to help break the fever he acquired overnight. The day went fairly well, and now we're sitting in a cafe. They are watching Pride and Prejudice (bootlegged movie; 70 cents, an hour of peace and quiet; priceless) and I am just enjoying the net.
Well, until next post!
Peace!
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
28 - 07 - 07, 11.50am [Current Vietnam Time]
Another slow two days. We spent more time filming b-roll at various locations, including the local church, the river, the Jade Dragon pagoda and various locations along the way. We apparently need permission to film inside the church, and every time we go to talk to the father, he's out. So, we are currently playing that one by ear.Our days start at 6.30am, and run till about 8pm, with a few rest breaks during the day. I must admit, I am having a hard time waking up so early - I'm used to sleeping in and working late. No matter though, just gonna have to take it for what it is.
Aside from this, we don't do a great deal. Many nights we'll either go to the nearby cafe, or have a few drinks at one of the backpacker oriented bars down the street. We are all getting fairly used to the heat (finally), and none of us have been sick so far.
That's about all to report. Now, I'm gonna go sleep for an hour.
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
26 - 07 - 07, 2.22pm [Current Vietnam Time]
Not much to report these past two days. Yesterday, we spent a good deal of time on research and the like, while Hai ran papers around. We took a brief walk to seek out places to film b-roll as well. I ended up turning in early, giving in to a bout of fatigue.
On a side note, for all those who may actually be following this, comments are always welcome (click on the "(#) voices in my head" link at the bottom of the post, click in the box under "Leave a Comment", type your comment, then click on "Publish Your Comment". Also, feel free to leave a name underneath whatever you right if you'd care to let me know who it is.
Thanks!
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
24 - 07 - 07, 6.30pm [Current Vietnam Time]
Sorry for the long absence. I've not had internet access for the past couple of days.
So, for the past 4 days we have been in Nha Trang, Hai-Lam's hometown. Progressing with the documentary over the weekend would have been overly difficult, if even possible, so we decided to take a trip and relax.Let's start with Friday; We began the day meeting with two of our contacts, and assessing what we needed to do when we returned from Nha Trang. After this, we were relatively free. We took a walk, saw a few sights, and waited. Our train left station at around 1.30pm, and arrived at midnight. I had the pleasure of sitting next to a man that elbowed me in the ribs the entire ride, not exactly my idea of relaxing, but it was only a brief discomfort - the rest of the weekend was much more enjoyable.

Next day, 6am, we woke up and prepared for a day out amongst the islands. After a quick breakfast, we were picked up at the hotel and driven to the docks, where we jumped on a tour boat that took us out to the islands. It was sunny, warm and not terribly windy, and my first experience scuba diving. Very good time, and our instructors were very good (though Courtney was allowed much more leeway, seeing as she had her diver's license). We returned at about 2.00pm, and went out for a massage.

I've never had a medicinal massage. I have also never had a blind person massage me. These two combined are quite the experience, but add in the fact that the blind person giving me a medicinal massage does not understand what I am saying, and I don't understand him, and you have one hell of a story. Honestly, the massage was good; it relieved a number of muscle knots I did not know I had (and ones that I'm not sure were there to begin with). However, I am not terribly fond of callused hands squeezing the knots out of my back. So, the good balanced the bad, and overal

After the massage, we headed to the Buddhist temple. This temple is overlooked by an enormous white Buddha statue that overlooks the city at all time. It's quite impressive. However, due to the complacency of the inhabitants, it is also a congregation point for beggars and street kids; a fact noted when we were assaulted by a few of the little ones. Cute buggers, but a little more playful than is usual for any Vietnamese child (according to Hai).

This was the first night we all really drank in Vietnam. After hopping a few bars and enjoying eachother's company, Courtney and Hai decided to return to the hotel. I, on the other hand, had met two English fellows and ended up pub-crawling with them till early morning (much to my next day demise). Suffice it to say, despite a good time and good conversation, I woke up with one hell of a headache.

After a day of recovery (for me) and sightseeing, we met a tour bus back at the hotel and jumped on for a restless night of travel back to Ho Chi Minh City (the sleeper train was booked). It was a 10 hour bus ride, and was perhaps one of the most uncomfortable journeys within this entire trip so far (though worth it). We arrived in HCM at 7.00am.
As for today, it was relatively uneventful. We grow closer to having full permission to film in the Ho Chi Minh peace camp; we were told the paperwork would take approx. 2 weeks to go through, but it would definitely go through. Courtney tells me that this is better than she had hoped, especially in the film industry, so I have high hopes. Unfortunately, it also means that I will not be here for most of the filming. Not a complaint, just a circumstance. We also researched a bit more into the history of Agent Orange, and just pulled up the facts. Tomorrow, we scout out locations for b-roll, and Thursday we begin filming. Everything seems t be falling into place.
Well, I've had a few and sleep is closing in fast. Posts should come daily for the time being, so see you tomorrow.
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
19 - 07 - 07, 10.50pm [Current Vietnam Time]
Today was an uneventful day, so I'll run it down in brief.
We woke up at 8am, and went to breakfast at a pho vendor down the street. After, we headed to the park for tea, and went our separate ways; Hai headed off to translate the script for our sponsors, and Courtney and myself went for a walk in the park. We ended up sitting on a stone bench in the shade, and found ourself confronted by an old lady. After talking to her for a half hour (and hearing a life story), she offered Courtney a pedicure for $2. Seeing as Courtney's toes were hideously narsty, yes narsty, we acquiesced to her request.
I wandered off a few times, and started realizing how much fun the random street vendors and market stalls can be. It can certainly be taxing at times, but if one gets in the correct mindset, it can be exhilarating. Even when I don't look to buy, I like to see how low I can get the vendors to go (and I'm getting better. On most accounts, I can now get it down to half price.)
That's it for the day though. We were going to go drink, but Hai took too long with the translations...but that's fine. Early morning meetings and the like are the real reason for lack of celebration.
This weekend, we'll be heading to Hai's hometown, Nha Trang. I will not be able to post while there, as we will not have the laptops. So, see you Monday.
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
18 - 07 - 07, 7.30pm [Current Vietnam Time]
6.00am start again. We went to the Banh Uoch place again; all agree it is perhaps one of the better meals of our trip so far. After breakfast, we went for tea in the park again. We discussed the script, and how we might shoot the film. Two pots of tea later, we were up and walking the length of the park. It was quite a nice walk; one could almost forget they were in the middle of a bustling city while in the park. We watched a group of people performing a fan dance for a short time, then made our way to the old capitol building, just north of the park.
The old capitol building was much like the White House (smaller in size, though more elegant in design). While there, we took a brief tour with a tour guide that spoke english (much too fast). We walked up to the fifth floor (roof/ballroom), then down to the basement, getting a good look at every room from the president's sleeping quarters to the war room, replete with maps and communication equipment.
After sweating out the hour long tour [it only cost $1], we made our way back to the hotel, stopping in a vegetarian restaurant on the way. This was one of those hole in the wall places, with red ants running down the wall and dogs chasing cats under the tables. In other words, a good time. It was also my first run-in with 'good' tofu - lemon grass tofu with sticky rice. Not my favorite meal, but something I would get again.
After eating, we went back to the hotel to gather our bags and notes, and then down to the coffee shop to write. Courtney and Hai seemed on a roll, and after a few ideas input, I slipped out to wander the street. I ended up finding myself back in the market, just wandering around and looking at the various wares. I found myself comparing prices and haggling a bit - you learn a good bit when not trying to buy anything (such as, you can always lower the price by 1/3, and many times by 1/2...sometimes more). After sating my cheapskate side (arguing for $2 is tiring work), I took a walk in the opposite direction, and somehow ended up back at the coffee shop.
At around 5.00, we explored a bit more, looking for places to shoot b-roll film and just taking in the sights. We wandered into a hindu temple (chalk one up for me; i forgot to remove my sandals...no wonder they were staring daggers at me), through a different street market (a night market), and ended up riverside. After spending some time watching the boats, we walked back (through the rich area) and back to the hotel.
And now, here I am, getting ready for sleep. Hai is currently in search of a nail clipper as we philosophize about life after death. I'm gonna go take a shower.
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
17 - 07 - 07, 8.04pm [Current Vietnam Time]
We slept in today. Is 8.00am really sleeping in? More Banh Uoch (Wet Noodles) for breakfast, then back to the hotel to prepare for a long day. Our first stop was the Red Cross; we were chasing our approval to visit the peace camps.
The director (who's name is Manh Tri) joined us in our discussion with the officials from the Red Cross. The meeting went well, but we were pointed to another meeting with workers at the nearby hospital that was dedicated to pregnant women and children (and thus, a number of Agent Orange v
After these long meetings, and lots of running around (through heavy traffic), we made our way back to the hotel and parted ways with Manh Tri (who is very kind, and really has our best interests in mind). The rest of the day was ours (until around 6pm, which is when we decided to start on the script). We started by heading to lunch; we went to the "Pho 2000" that President Clinton ate at in 2000. Afterwards, we wandered the market for awhile, haggling a few items into our possession (never getting a proper price, of course, but cheap none-the-less).
Around 3.00pm, we decided to try to walk to a nearby Pagoda. It didn't seem so far away, and we wanted to do some sightseeing - of course, we ended up getting lost, wandering a rundown housing district, and having our noses assaulted by the rank smell of a local river. In all, a fun experience!
On our way back, we stopped in the market again, and I became seperated. It seemed like I was immediately swarmed by all manner of people wanting to sell me shirts, trinkets and useless crap! 2 shirts, 1 bottle of liquor (with a cobra inside) and a headache later, I found my way out and back to the hotel.We rested briefly, then headed down to the cafe, which is where we sit now, doing more research on Agent Orange and writing the script.
I'm also drinking a Long Island Iced Tea. In a coffee house. It's great.
Well, that's all for now. Time to focus...and then sleep.
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
16-07-07, 10.05pm [Current Vietnam Time]
The day started at 6.00am. We woke up and walked down the street to breakfast from a street vendor; Banh Uoch (Wet Cake, lit.). From there, we took a walk through the market as people were setting up stalls and preparing for the day. Hot tea was our objective, and we found it in the nearby park (served in a pot with shot glasses instead of cups). Usually, people bring birds in cages to the park and hang them from nearby hooks, creating a literal symphony of bird calls throughout the day.
We made our way back to the hotel shortly thereafter, picking up a coconut drink along the way. Tasty, refreshing and only $0.90. At around 9.00am, we met with a local director, who took a look at what we were planning and offered insight. He also ended up helping us gather the necessary paperwork and phone numbers to begin the process of being allowed into the "Peace Camps" (places where victims of Agent Orange are given rehabilitation). It is going to be a long process, but one we are ready to undertake. It is the legit route, and one that will probably hit closer to home than our original plan.
The rest of the day was spent in relaxation; Courtney and Hai had been at work on this project for months, and needed a day or two to relax. We met some of Hai's family at a local restaurant and had some type of fried Vietnamese pancake with shrimp and pork. At this point, it was about 2.00pm, and we were all pretty tired (Courtney having the pleasure of sicking up as soon as we got back).
After a 30 minute nap (which turned into a 3 hour nap), we went out again. At this point, it was about nearly 6.00pm, and we were headed to a less touristy marketplace. We ended up walking for 3 hours, only to find out that the marketplace was closed. After an overcharged taxi fare (I feel strange saying this - It was really only $2.00), we found ourselves back at the hotel, about ready to collapse. However, the nearby market called (supplemented by the soccer fans, who were recently overjoyed by a tie with Japan), and we checked out some of the stalls before calling it a night.
[Description: Travel - Group - Asia - Documentary]
15-07-07, 9.20pm [Current Vietnam Time]
For the past two days, I have done nothing but travel. That is nearly 48 hours of sitting in a plane or in a terminal waiting for a plane - sounds like nothing, right? Well, that is the problem. Nothing gets tiring.
But enough of my problems. I arrived right on time to meet Hai and Courtney at the departure gate outside of customs. No problems getting through there. Outside, everything was in an orderly type of chaos; taxi drivers vie for your attention as hundreds await friends and family at the gate.
We jumped into a taxi, and it immediately caught my eye that he did what many third world country taxi drivers will do; he covered up the last zero. For reference, the exchange rate is 16k dong to 1 USD. Most meters also use a decimal instead of a comma [1.000 instead of 1,000]. In this case, the last zero was covered up just enough to make it not stand out to the casual observer, but still allow for the driver to insist it was in plain view. [So, 1.000 would look like 1.00]. He didn't take advantage of us, though. The ride was relatively cheap.
We arrived at the hotel shortly thereafter, I unpacked,and we went out for food. Crab spring rolls made up my first Vietnamese meal, and it was delicious. After satisfying our hunger, we stopped in a cafe to go over our plans. And after lengthy discussion, here they are:
For the time being, we will be dropping the original doc, and picking up a new theme: Agent Orange. If you do not know what Agent Orange is, google it (first for pictures, then for info, and no, not the band). We are unsure how we are going to run with this theme, but we will be visiting "peace camps" in the coming week to observe and decide a course of action. The thoughts behind the change in theme stem from the fact that this film will be presented to a [chiefly] American audience - street children will not evoke as much a reaction as something that was caused by [our] American ancestors, though the street children do remain a strong story to different extents.
In case you have not googled Agent Orange yet, here is the short:
During the Vietnam war, the American army sprayed over 12 million gallons of an herbicide codenamed "Agent Orange" (amongst a plethora of other herbicides, collectively deemed the "Rainbow Herbicides") in order to eliminate the foliage which concealed enemy soldiers. The military ended up spraying 6 to 25 percent more than was recommended by the scientists who had developed it. Ultimately, it caused various health problems in both Vietnamese civilians and allied soldiers alike, and physical deformities in the offspring of those affected. The point of all this; the U.S. government still denies that Agent Orange causes illness, despite multiple documents (then unreleased, but still circulating) that labeled it as dangerous to humans.
I would love to post more, but jetlag is catching up to me. I need strength for tomorrow; much to do, and little time. At least I have a bed to sleep on.
[Description: Travel - Asia - Group - Documentary]
Pre-Trip Thoughts
On July 13th, I'll be traveling to Vietnam to help in the filming of a documentary. The documentary is called "Dust of Life", and follows the struggles of the "Street Children" (or, "boi doi") of Ho Chi Minh City. It is being co-written and directed by my cousin, Courtney Marsh, a film student at UCLA, along with Hai-Lam Phan, who will also be co-writing and acting as director of photography.
I will be attempting to chronicle our time there (or, at least, the one month I will be there with them), keeping this blog updated with daily happenings and the like. However, I will be unable to write everything I would like while I'm there. Certain rules are in place, restricting me until I return.
That having been said, my next post will most likely be sometime after the 14th or 15th of July.
See you then.






Left to Right, by row:
1. A) Lan, Hai and Courtney filming B-roll of the sea.
B) Courtney and Hai film b-roll of countryside while two local children watch.
2. A) Me, standing on the shore near where Courtney and Hai are filming B-roll.
B) Lan watching Bang and An play on her phone.
3. A) Courtney playing dominoes with Hoa and Minh.
B) Courtney watching a number of the younger children affected by Agent Orange.